Pesto alla Trapanese | Sicilian Almond and Fresh Tomato Pesto

Pound the almonds and garlic with a pinch of salt in a mortar. The salt is there for friction, not flavor: as the almond pieces rub against the salt crystals, they crush more evenly. Stop when the mixture has a coarse, sandy texture; do not grind it into flour.

Remove the stem ends of the tomatoes and score an X on the bottom of each. Dip them in boiling water for 1 minute, then transfer them to cold water; the skins will loosen at the cuts. Remove the skins and the watery seed pockets, add the fleshy parts to the mortar, and pound them in. The seed liquid would thin the sauce, so discard it.

Tear the basil leaves by hand, add them, and crush lightly; basil chopped with a knife darkens at the edges. Stir in the grated cheese, then stream in the olive oil to bind the sauce. It should be textured and fall slowly from a spoon. Adjust the salt after tasting, since the cheese is salty.