Zucchini fritters are made with raw grated zucchini, but leek has a tough fibrous texture and needs to be softened in oil before it goes into the batter. That one difference changes the whole recipe: sautéing sweetens the leek and prevents it from staying raw inside as the fritters cook. Cheese and dill balance the leek’s sulfurous aroma, while the garlic yogurt served alongside makes the fritters a meze.
Trim off the leek’s root end and dark, tough green leaves. Split it lengthwise and rinse between the layers under running water; soil collects where the white and green parts meet. Cut the washed leek into thin rings, about half a centimeter thick.
Heat the olive oil in a wide skillet and cook the leek over medium heat, stirring. The rings will first shrink, then turn translucent; they are ready when they offer no resistance when pressed against the pan. Do not wait for them to brown; browned leek tastes bitter in the batter.
Put the cooled leek in a large bowl. Add the eggs, crumbled cheese, chopped dill, salt, and black pepper. Sift in the flour in two batches and mix with a spoon. The batter should be thick enough to fall slowly from the spoon without running; if it runs, add 1 more spoonful of flour.
Heat the oil to 170°C / 340°F; a drop of batter should bubble immediately and rise to the surface. Scoop up the batter with a tablespoon, drop it into the oil, and flatten it slightly with the back of the spoon. Fry each side for 2–3 minutes. Do not crowd the pan; too many fritters lower the oil temperature and absorb more oil.
Crush the garlic and stir it into the strained yogurt, whisking until smooth. Transfer the fried fritters to paper towels to absorb excess oil. Serve warm, with the yogurt in a separate bowl on the side; yogurt poured over the top softens the crust within a few minutes.
Let the sautéed leek cool until just warm before adding it to the batter. If added while hot, it will curdle the eggs and the fritters may fall apart in the pan.
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