Orange Rolls — Yeast-Raised Rolls with Orange Zest

Wash and dry the oranges. Using the fine side of a grater, remove only the orange zest; when the white pith appears, move to another spot. Add the zest to the sugar set aside for the dough and rub with your fingertips for 1 minute. The oils have transferred when the sugar becomes damp and smells distinctly of orange.

Divide the risen dough into 16 pieces, roll each into a ball, and arrange them spaced apart on a parchment-lined baking sheet. If you like, braid three strands together to make small braids. Cover and let rise a second time.

Brush the risen rolls with beaten egg yolk and sprinkle with granulated sugar. The sugar will remain granular rather than melt in the oven, adding a crisp bite.

Bake in an oven preheated to 180°C / 355°F for 25 minutes. They are done when the tops are deep golden and tapping the bottom produces a hollow sound. Cool on a wire rack; rolls placed in a closed container while hot will sweat and soften on the surface.