Pipián Verde | Mexican Green Pumpkin Seed Sauce

Toast the pumpkin seeds in a dry skillet over low heat, stirring constantly. They are ready when they puff up, a few start popping in the pan, and they smell nutty. Darkened seeds will make the sauce bitter and dull its color, so transfer them to a plate right away.

Quarter the green tomatoes and coarsely chop the onion and chiles. Put them in a pot with the garlic, add enough water to cover, and simmer until the tomatoes change color and soften. Do not discard the cooking liquid; you will use some to thin the sauce.

First, grind the toasted seeds by themselves in a food processor until they have a fine, sandy texture. Add the drained vegetables, fresh cilantro, and two ladlefuls of cooking liquid. Blend until smooth. The mixture should have the consistency of a thick puree.

Transfer the puree to a pot and thin it with the chicken broth. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally. It is ready when the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon and turns a muted green. Do not let it boil; adjust the salt at the end.