Risotto alla Milanese | Creamy Saffron Rice, Italian-Style

Add the rice to the pot without rinsing it. Raise the heat to medium and toast the rice, stirring constantly. As the grains heat up, their edges turn translucent while the centers remain white; you should feel the warmth when you hold your hand above the pot. Do not rinse the rice—the starch washed away is what makes risotto creamy.

Add enough hot stock to cover the rice and stir with a wooden spoon. As soon as the liquid is absorbed and the spoon briefly leaves a trail on the bottom of the pot, add another ladleful. Repeat for 18 minutes. Add the salt halfway through, and taste a grain during the final 3 minutes: it should have a tiny white core.

Pour the bloomed saffron liquid into the risotto and stir until the color is evenly distributed. Adding the saffron at the beginning would cause its volatile aromas to dissipate during the long cooking time. The rice will turn a bright yellow.

Remove the pot from the heat and add the remaining 40 g of cold butter and the Parmesan. Instead of stirring with a spoon, rock the pot toward you and stir vigorously from time to time; the risotto will become glossy and fluid. Grind in black pepper, transfer to a plate, and tap the edge of the plate gently—the risotto should spread on its own when it has the right consistency.