Sarığı Burma: Gaziantep-Style Pistachio Spiral Baklava

Put the sugar and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat for another 12 minutes. Add the lemon juice before removing from the heat. The syrup is ready when the last drop from a spoon stretches into a thread and breaks. Remove it from the heat and let it cool completely in a cool corner of the counter.

Coarsely chop the Antep pistachios with a knife; grinding them in a food processor will release their oil and make them clump. Melt the butter over low heat and let it stand for 3 minutes, until the white solids settle to the bottom. Pour the clear butter into another container. If you skip this clarification, the phyllo will burn instead of browning.

As soon as the pan comes out of the oven, ladle the cooled syrup over the baklava, moving from the edges toward the center. The syrup has absorbed when the sizzling stops. Tilt the pan to check for syrup pooling at the bottom; if it does, leave the baklava uncovered until the excess is absorbed.