Satsebeli | Georgian Tomato and Walnut Sauce

Grate the tomatoes and discard the skins. Put the pulp in a pot and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally. As the water evaporates, the color changes from light red to dark brick and the volume reduces by about one-third. It is ready when a trail drawn through it with a spoon stays open for 1 second.

Pound the walnuts, garlic, and salt in a mortar until they begin to release their oil and clump like damp sand. If using a food processor, pulse it; a continuously running blade heats the walnuts and releases their oil too soon.

Turn the heat very low. Add the pounded walnut mixture and spices to the reduced tomatoes and stir. Let the sauce warm for a few minutes without bringing it to a boil. Remove it from the heat, then stir in the vinegar and finely chopped fresh cilantro. The sauce should fall slowly from a spoon; if it is too thick, thin it with 1 tablespoon of water and serve at room temperature. Store the sauce in a covered container in the refrigerator and discard it if its smell or appearance changes.