Sort the Fruit
15 minSpread the terebinth fruit on a wide tray and remove any stems, leaves, or debris. Discard any shriveled, moldy, or hollow pieces.
This coffee-like drink contains no coffee beans. The fruit of the wild terebinth tree, which grows around Gaziantep, is roasted and pounded until it releases its oil and becomes a paste. The paste is heated with milk and frothed; it tastes like pistachios and roasted nuts and is not bitter like coffee. Make one batch of paste, store it in the refrigerator for months, and scoop out a little whenever needed.
Spread the terebinth fruit on a wide tray and remove any stems, leaves, or debris. Discard any shriveled, moldy, or hollow pieces.
Heat a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Add the fruit without oil and roast, stirring constantly. The pieces will darken without blackening, then their surfaces will become shiny with oil and release a sharp, resinous aroma; stop roasting when that aroma appears. If they smell smoky, they have burned and should not be used. Transfer them to a tray and let them cool completely.
Pound the cooled fruit in a mortar or food processor. It will first become powder, then release its oil and turn into a dark paste. In a food processor this takes 20–30 minutes; stop occasionally to scrape down the sides. The paste is ready when it leaves a mark on the back of a spoon. Transfer it to a jar; this amount makes about 200 g of paste.
Put the milk and 60 g of paste in a saucepan. Heat over low heat, whisking, until the paste has fully dissolved and no lumps remain on the bottom. Add sugar if desired. Once it rises and foam appears on the surface, remove it from the heat. Spoon the foam into cups and fill them with the milk.
Let the roasted fruit cool completely before pounding it; pounding it while hot releases the oil too quickly and gives it a burnt aroma. Store leftover paste in a jar in the refrigerator for 1 month or in the freezer for 3 months. The milk can boil over quickly, so stay by the pot or small coffee pot as it heats.
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