Cong You Ban Mian — Shanghai Scallion Oil Noodles

Wash the scallions and dry them thoroughly on a towel; wet scallions will splatter in the oil and will not dry properly. Separate the white and pale green parts from the dark green leaves, and cut both groups into 5 cm pieces. Keep them on separate plates; they go into the oil at different times.

Put the oil and the white parts of the scallions in a cold pan and begin heating over the lowest heat. Do not preheat the oil: warming the scallions along with it lets them release their aroma gradually. Turn them occasionally and patiently cook until they shrink and their edges turn golden.

Add the dark green leaves to the pan and continue over the same low heat. They will wilt and shrink, then turn brown and crisp like paper. Remove the dark brown pieces with tongs; if they turn black, the oil will become bitter and must be discarded.

Lift the dried scallions out with a strainer and set them on a plate. Pour about 50 ml of the oil left in the pan into a small saucepan. Add both soy sauces and the sugar, then boil for 1 minute. Once the sugar has dissolved and the sauce looks glossy, remove it from the heat. Pour the remaining scallion oil into a jar.

Transfer the hot noodles to a wide bowl, pour the sauce over them, and toss with tongs for 30 seconds, until every strand is evenly coated. Pile the dried scallions and toasted sesame seeds on top. Serve immediately; if left to sit, the noodles will absorb all the sauce and dry out.