Nuoc Mau — Vietnamese Caramel Sauce for Braises

Put the sugar and sixty milliliters of water in a light-colored, heavy-bottomed pot; the light interior makes it easier to see the caramel’s color. Stir over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Once it has dissolved, stop stirring; stirring from this point on can cause the sugar to crystallize.

Swirl the pot from time to time to cook the caramel evenly. The syrup will stay clear at first, then start to take on color around the edges, followed quickly by golden and deep amber. Aim for the color of brewed tea; a wisp of smoke at the edges and a sharp aroma mean it has reached the right point. Even 1 second too long will make the sauce irretrievably bitter.

Remove the pot from the heat and slowly add the boiling water, pouring it away from yourself. The mixture will foam vigorously and release steam; this is expected, but do not lean over the pot. Adding the water stops the cooking and prevents the caramel from darkening further.

Return the pot to low heat and stir until all the caramel pieces dissolve. The sauce should be a pourable syrup that falls from a spoon in a dark brown ribbon. Let it cool completely, then transfer it to a glass jar; it will thicken a little as it cools. Store the jar in the refrigerator, and discard the sauce if its smell or appearance changes.