Olive oil dishes
Wild mustard greens emerge among olive groves in spring and should be gathered before they flower; after flowering, the leaves toughen and their bitterness lingers. Most of the bitterness is removed by discarding the blanching water. Olive oil, garlic, and lemon balance what remains.
Remove yellowed leaves and the ends of the roots. Wild mustard greens hold soil, so wash them three times in plenty of water; no sand should remain at the bottom of the final rinse. Halve any large leaves.
Add the greens to unsalted boiling water and blanch for 8 minutes. They are ready when the stems can be pierced with the tip of a knife. Drain them and discard all the blanching water; do not rinse with cold water, which makes the leaves watery.
Heat half the olive oil in a pot. Add the finely chopped onion and cook, stirring, until translucent; add the crushed garlic during the last 30 seconds. Move on as soon as the garlic becomes fragrant; it will turn bitter if it browns.
Add the drained greens to the pot, season with salt and Turkish red pepper flakes, and cover. Cook over low heat for 8–10 minutes, until the greens absorb the oil and turn dark green. If liquid collects at the bottom of the pot, uncover it and let the liquid evaporate.
Remove the pot from the heat, drizzle in the remaining olive oil and lemon juice, and stir. Serve warm.
Do not save the blanching water; discard it. The bitterness stays in the water, and adding it back to the dish makes the flavor harsh.
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