A winter-table classic of Iraqi cuisine, bitter orange marmalade is made by julienning the peel paper-thin and simmering it with sugar. Getting the peel thin enough and catching the right setting point takes a practiced hand.
Wash the bitter oranges and julienne the peel paper-thin, then separate the flesh and squeeze out its juice.
Put the thinly sliced peel in a pot with the sugar, water, bitter orange juice and lemon juice, and simmer on low heat for 20 minutes until it reaches the setting point.
Pour the marmalade into clean jars while still hot once it reaches the setting point, seal, and let cool at room temperature.
When slicing the peel, leave as little of the bitter white pith as possible, or the marmalade will taste too bitter. To check the setting point, drop a bit onto a cold plate and push it with your finger; if it wrinkles, it's ready.
If you can't find bitter orange, grapefruit peel gives a similar marmalade; since it's less bitter, you can reduce the sugar slightly.
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